This short video from Cryptobrewology.com shows you how to get started with Mr. Beer, with options to help you step it up a notch using glass bottles, and an…
Video Rating: 4 / 5
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August 30, 2013 at 3:59 pm
How To Tags:
American, Beer, Brewing, Devil
The alcohol level is directly related to the amount of fermentable sugars, alcohol tolerance of the yeast and aeration. Aeration won’t increase the alcohol over what the actual ingredients, per recipe, can create. The way to look at it is that proper aeration will allow you to maximize potential alcohol. An air pump is not necessary for good aeration. Stick with a hearty transfer method and aerator attachment, or generous agitation in the fermenter before and after pitching the yeast.
The method was carried over to Mr. Beer from my regular home brewing process. I dissolve the sugar in some hot water first, let that cool, add it to my bottling bucket, then it blends in when you add the wort. Some guys use two kegs for this process, they add the sugar water to an empty, clean keg, and then transfer the wort over and bottle after it’s all mixed in well, gently though. At that stage you don’t want to agitate it. Hope this helps!
Very helpful! Thanks
Stoked on these videos! I am new to brewing and just got a Mr. Beer kit… so far, I’m hooked. I am still waiting on my first batch and getting ready to bottle this Saturday. I thought the way you did it here in the video made a lot of sense and I’d like to try it, but I didn’t catch how you “dissolved” the sugar prior to adding the wort. Any help with explaining that process prior to bottling would be much appreciated! ^_^
Holy Shit, I was just going to comment saying that. Especially at around 5:43…
Sounds good. Dry hopping will have an effect on the aroma mostly, for best flavor impact add a pinch as you’re dissolving the HME and stir for about 10 minutes. Dry hop with the rest. I wouldn’t use any more than 1/2 ounce total for flavor and aroma. Probably less in the ~2 gallon batch of Mr. Beer.
Thanks for the advice! I’m looking to dry hop with some galaxy hops for the next batch to add a fruity/citrus flavor.
Yep! You can add your selected aroma hops directly to the keg fermenter. The best method would be to put the hops in a hop sack, add it to the fermenter after you’ve poured in the wort and stirred in the yeast. Just dunk the hop sack a few times to get it going and let it float around as the beer ferments.
Any way you could dry hop your beers using Mr. Beer?
dane cook knows his beer
And to answer your other question, yes, even though there is no very active current noticed in the liquid, fermentation can still be ongoing. This is one drawback of the Mr. Beer keg fermenter, no airlock to monitor that.
Hey there, sorry for the delay in responding. Has the fermentation picked up at all? Sluggish fermentation can be caused by a few things: wort temp, low oxygen (not enough agitation or stirring), room temp. Sometimes you’ll have an early burst of activity, then it may settle down a bit only to get going again a day or so later. If you don’t notice any visual signs of fermentation in the liquid try gently sloshing the keg or sanitize a spoon and stir it up. Let me know how it works out.
You can use regular granulated sugar, though corn sugar (confectioner’s sugar) will dissolve more thoroughly. Check out the page link in the video description for more info and discussion on making beer with Mr. Beer. Hope this helps!
which mr beer malt would be close to Pabst or Shlits
Also, their seasonals use a much larger single can, about 3.75 lbs, and they have a much higher alcohol yield.
Not necessarily. Their Premium All Malt refills, which include the American Devil IPA, come with two 1.2 lb (550g) cans of HME, some recipes will have one HME and one UME, some will have one HME and a Booster pack. The newly repackaged standard refills have one can of HME at about 1.9lbs. The difference is the total fermentable sugars which will create the final alcohol level for each recipe.
so you need 2 cans per batch?
After adding the sugar we would need to stir to blend it in for consistent carbonation across all bottles. Stirring in the keg will mix the sediment back into the beer, so racking (or transferring) to another bottling vessel is used with this priming method.
It isn’t shown in the video, but the best way to transfer the beer from the fermenter is to position the cooler/jug below the keg spigot, attach a length of tubing to the spigot nozzle (enough to reach well into the jug) and drain the keg into the bottling vessel. This way you don’t stir up the sediment and do not agitate the liquid too much. Draining directly from the spigot will oxygenate the beer and that can lead to off flavors. Either granulated or powdered sugar will work.
Stupid question – why not just add the priming sugar to the mr. beer then?
thanks for the video, it is very helpful as i am new to brewing with Mr Beer. I love the idea of premixing and adding the sugar to the beer before bottling, Mr Beer warns against moving the tank too much before bottling so as not to stir up the sediment. How do you transfer the beer to the coleman jug without doing so? also you say powdered sugar I have been using granulated sugar. which is it? thanks again
Hey, go easy on the guy. His comment seems legit. I’m sure every cake he’s ever made was from complete scratch and never out of a box too.
Another interesting fact is that Coopers recently purchased Mr beer, and stated that they will be doing a few changes to improve its quality, so i spose that is a positive to you guys then. Also, considering your apparent closeness to mr beer, your response is of no surprise.
Perhaps poor wording on my part, even though it ‘does the job’, Mr beer seems ‘cheap’ or tacky. You still have to wait for about a month (including brewing) but only getting 7.5L for the work, time to set up etc. For the record ive brewed for years, more recently using the coopers set up, and in my opinion, a far more superior system. (As for the capper i thought i saw it on the mr beer website a while, but may be mistaken)
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